Plain, twill or satin? The three basic weaves

Plain weave is the simplest: each weft thread goes over one warp thread and under the next. It makes a firm, flat, hard-wearing cloth. Poplin, chiffon and canvas are all plain weaves. Twill weave steps the crossings along by one thread on every row, which draws a diagonal line across the cloth. Twills drape well and hide wear. Denim and gabardine are classic twills. Satin weave lets threads float over several others before they cross. Those long floats catch the light and give satin its smooth, glossy face, at the cost of being easier to snag. Next time you pick up a fabric, look closely at the surface. A grid, a diagonal or a sheen tells you which of the three you are holding.